“At the Mercato Civico in Sassari there are stalls where customers have been greeted by name for years. This is a Sardinian market — not a tourist attraction.”
In Alghero the weekly market is held on Wednesday mornings; in Sassari the place to go is the Mercato Civico in Piazza Mercato, open Monday to Saturday mornings. Both are easy to reach from anywhere in the North-West, but the base you choose changes everything — distances, parking, getting back.
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Supermarkets sell Sardinian products. Weekly markets sell Sardinia. The difference is real: at the market, the farmer from Osilo brings his pecorino (sheep's cheese), the signora from Ittiri her home-made sun-dried tomatoes, the fishmonger from Porto Torres fish caught this morning. No middlemen, no shelf life worked out on paper, no packaging.
If you're staying in a holiday home with a kitchen — the perfect way to do Sardinia — the market should be your first stop: you do your real shopping at local prices and cook what the locals eat.
Monday to Saturday (mornings)
Sassari's covered market, between Piazza Mercato, Via Mercato and Viale Umberto, near the Ponte Rosello bridge. Permanent stalls with fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, cheeses and cured meats. It opens early in the morning; on some days it also stays open into the early afternoon: check the current opening hours before you go.
Different days in each neighbourhood
Besides the Mercato Civico, several Sassari neighbourhoods hold open-air markets with stalls selling food, clothing and household goods. The municipality has also planned a weekly market on Corso Vico, with spaces set aside for farmers. Days and locations can change: ask us or check the Sassari municipality website.
One morning a week (ask locally)
A neighbourhood market used almost exclusively by residents. Fresh local produce, rock-bottom prices. An authentic experience far from the tourist flow of the centre.
Last Sunday of the month (not in July and August)
An antiques and second-hand market in Sassari's main square: furniture, vintage pieces, books, ceramics. More of a fixture for Sassari locals than for tourists: check the date before you go.
Every Wednesday morning
The big Wednesday open-air market: fruit and vegetables, cheeses and cured meats, but also clothing, homeware, leather goods, books and toys. It's the market for the people who live in Alghero. The exact location can change: ask us or check the Alghero municipality website.
Monday to Saturday (mornings)
Alghero's covered market, in the Pietraia district near the Lido: stalls with fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and cheeses. It's the place for everyday shopping if you're staying in a home with a kitchen.
Early in the morning
Alghero is a seaside town: the best fish is bought at the fishmongers in the centre and, sometimes, straight from the fishermen when the boats come back in. Lobster is only available in the months when fishing for it is allowed.
| What | How to go about it |
|---|---|
| Time | Get there early, by 9am (even earlier in summer): the best produce goes fast and after 11am there's little left |
| Payment | Bring some cash: at the smaller stalls, especially the farmers', it's handier than a card |
| Shopping bag | Bring your own bag (and a cool bag) — carrier bags cost extra and are flimsy |
| Car park | In Sassari look for a space in the blue-line zones as early as possible. In Alghero leave the car in a nearby car park and walk |
| Haggling | You don't haggle over fresh food. You can haggle (a little) over clothing and crafts |
| Language | Italian is perfectly fine. But if you smile and say “bona die” (good morning in Sardinian) or, in Alghero, “bon dia” in Algherese, the mood changes |
You have the kitchen, you have the recipe — all that's missing is the real shopping. AffittaSardegna homes are designed for people who want the real Sardinia, not hotel service: the kitchen equipment is listed on each home's page.
Holiday homes in northern Sardinia
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